Patagonia: Autumn at the End of the World

Text and images by Andrea Pettinari

A photography trip is an experience unlike any other form of travel: it brings together people who share the same passion and takes them to incredible places, at the best times of year and in the most spectacular light conditions.

This is my job: accompanying people as they experience and photograph destinations they may have dreamed about for years, helping them turn a long-held dream into a real experience and, why not, capture a few unforgettable shots along the way.

Patagonia had always been one of those dreams for me. That’s why I decided to set off on an exploratory trip: I wanted to find the best locations, gain a deeper understanding of the dynamics of a land that lies quite literally at the end of the world, and gather all the information I would need to guide a group there in the years to come.

But above all, I wanted to enjoy it, experience it for myself and, for the first time, discover what it feels like to finally stand in front of something I had only imagined for so long.

With plenty of trekking on the itinerary, I decided to leave my trusted AKU Jager Evo High GTX boots at home – faithful companions on countless photography trips – and rely instead on my AKU Conero NBK GTX, which I had already put through their paces over several hundred kilometres of mountains, trails and mixed terrain. It turned out to be the right choice, and they officially became my favourite trekking boots – the pair I still wear everywhere in the mountains today.

In this article, I want to share the two parts of the journey that impressed me most: Torres del Paine and the imposing Fitz Roy massif.

Torres del Paine

Let’s start in Chile. After two days of travelling and an entire day spent in a minivan, we finally reach our first major destination: Torres del Paine National Park.

The first thing that strikes you is almost surreal: everything here looks unreal. Every element seems to have been placed exactly where it belongs, as if someone had carefully designed the landscape, choosing every shape, colour and proportion.

The imposing peaks rise in front of us, making it feel as though we are high in the mountains, yet we are only about fifty metres above sea level. The lakes are an almost unreal shade of blue, especially when a ray of sunlight breaks through and lights up their surface.

We explore the park far and wide, but there is one decidedly unphotographic detail we need to keep a close eye on: fuel. The nearest petrol stations are about three hours away, and this, more than any sign, makes us realise just how isolated we are and how deeply immersed we are in a landscape that remains truly wild.

And then there is the light – incredible light, which fortunately stays with us throughout our time here. At dawn, fiery shafts of light set the highest peaks ablaze in deep red, almost as if glowing lava were flowing down their faces.

We walk along boardwalks suspended within the landscape, beside streams and thundering waterfalls. It is autumn and, day by day, the vegetation slowly begins to change colour.

Jager Evo High GTX

Full-grain leather boot designed for intensive use in cold and wet environments. The GORE-TEX® membrane provides waterproof protection, breathability and comfort, while the protective rubber rand and Vibram® Foura outsole ensure protection and grip even on the most challenging terrain.

Towards Fitz Roy

And when it comes to autumn colours, the time of year we chose for this journey turns out to be perfect for admiring the foliage beneath two of Patagonia’s most iconic mountains: Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre.

We cross into Argentina. More than six hours of driving through the steppe lie ahead of us, surrounded by virtually nothing, with only guanacos and the charming rheas for company – large birds that look a little like small ostriches.

Then, almost without warning, the monotony of the steppe gives way to excitement as we drive the final stretch of the legendary Ruta 40 before reaching El Chaltén.

And driving with Fitz Roy rising before your eyes is something that is difficult to put into words.

Its presence dominates the landscape and, kilometre after kilometre, it seems to grow larger and larger. No photograph could ever truly capture the vastness and majesty of this land.

From here on, we rely on our own two feet, with some of the most scenic hikes I have ever done ahead of us. Vibrant forests, every shade of autumn and, above all, what for me was the most breathtaking view of the entire journey.

As we approach the lagoon, we decide to leave the main trail and take a lesser-used path. For a few minutes, the dense vegetation completely hides the view from us. Then, almost without warning, the forest opens up.

Before us is a vast viewpoint overlooking the valley, completely transformed by the colours of autumn. And there, on the other side, stands Fitz Roy.

Imposing, majestic, almost unreal.

The emotion was overwhelming. To finally stand before a landscape I had dreamed of for years and discover that reality could actually exceed my expectations is something difficult to put into words.

And that was only the first of a long series of viewpoints that, of course, we simply couldn’t resist. We kept walking, stopping again and again to admire and photograph every shade of that Patagonian autumn.

Walking beneath Fitz Roy on such perfect days is by no means something you can take for granted. Luck played a crucial role: at this time of year, the weather here is extremely changeable, often windy and sometimes even snowy.

Like one freezing morning, when we found ourselves in front of a magnificent waterfall, with temperatures a few degrees below zero and a breeze so strong it literally chilled us to the bone.

But that is the beauty of being completely captivated by your surroundings: everything else disappears – the effort, the cold, the tiredness – and all that remains is a sense of wonder.

And then comes that long-awaited click – the one we have waited hours, days, perhaps even years for – finally giving us the shot we had pictured in our minds.