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GR54 - Tour Des Ecrins with Matteo Peroni

The Tour

The Tour des Écrins, also known as the GR54, is one of the most challenging and spectacular hiking trails in the French Alps. This route winds around the Écrins massif, in the heart of the Écrins National Park, located in the Isère and Hautes-Alpes regions. Approximately 190 km long and with a total elevation gain of over 12,000 meters, the GR54 is considered one of the toughest treks in the Alps, often compared to the Tour du Mont Blanc for its beauty and difficulty.

The diary

We set out from Monêtier-les-Bains and followed the Tour des Écrins clockwise, choosing to sleep in tents for most of the route, given the difficulty of finding space in the refuges due to the crowds on August 15th.
The first two days we followed the official stages to acclimatize to the trek and accustom our legs and bodies to the daily effort, taking advantage of perfect weather.

On the third day, feeling fit, we decided to combine two stages into one: from the Cabane de Jas Lacroix to Lac du Vallonpierre, covering about 26 km with almost 2,000 meters of elevation gain. I had never tackled such an elevation gain in low shoes, but the AKU Rocket DFS GTX proved to be excellent. Thanks to the Dual Fit System, I was able to adapt the fit to better manage the steep descents, avoiding blisters or calluses. We arrived exhausted after 7:00 PM, and after a well-deserved beer and a hearty dinner, we set about setting up the tent, but the weather made things complicated with lightning and thunder. With no places available at the refuge, we spent the night in the tent under a relentless storm.

At dawn on the fourth day, the weather calmed, and we took advantage of the beautiful day to combine two stages once again, reaching the picturesque village of Désert en Valjouffrey. Over the next few days, we maintained a good pace without any particular difficulties until the seventh day, when the weather took a sudden turn. The forecast forced us to opt for Variant C of our GR54, and we reached Venosc to spend the night at a campsite, where we finally did our laundry and treated ourselves to a pizza (which, it must be said, we make better in Italy).

Even in rainy and muddy conditions, the AKU Rocket DFS GTX kept our feet dry, proving their reliability once again. The next day, we took a zero-day in Les Deux Alpes, a non-hiking break where we stocked up on supplies. Despite our low spirits due to the bad weather, the forecast gave us hope. The next morning, under finally clear skies, we set off again towards the Col du Souchet, on the Emparis plateau, where we found the most beautiful tent spot of the entire trip: a breathtaking sunset with low clouds and orange-tinted mountains.

gr 54 TOUR DES ECRINS

Route characteristics

DURATION: The complete trek takes between 10 and 13 days, depending on the pace and physical condition of the walker.

DIFFICULTY: The route is classified as very difficult. Stages include long ascents and descents, often on rocky and steep terrain, with some passes exceeding 2,600 meters in altitude.

HIGHLIGHTS: The passes over the Col de la Muzelle, Col d'Arsine, and Col du Souchet offer breathtaking panoramic views of snow-capped peaks, glaciers, and wild Alpine valleys. The route passes through traditional villages such as La Grave, Vallouise, and Monêtier-les-Bains, offering a glimpse of Alpine architecture and local culture.

FLORA AND FAUNA: Écrins National Park is known for its biodiversity. While hiking, you may spot ibex, chamois, marmots, and, with a little luck, golden eagles. The flora includes a wide array of alpine flowers, including edelweiss, gentian, and rhododendrons, which brighten the landscape during the summer.

ACCOMMODATION AND SUPPLIES: Along the route, trekkers can stay overnight in a well-organized network of mountain huts, gîtes d'étape, and campsites. These huts offer rustic hospitality, with hot meals and the opportunity to share experiences with other hikers. Advance booking is essential, especially during the high summer months (July and August).

BEST TIME FOR HIKING: The best time to hike the GR54 is from late June to mid-September, when the trails are free of snow and the weather is more stable. However, even in summer, the weather can change rapidly, with the possibility of afternoon thunderstorms, so it's essential to be well-equipped.

The stages of Matteo

Day 1 - Monêtier-les-Bains - Col du Frejus
Day 2 - Col du Fréjus - Vallouise - Cabane de Jas Lacroix
Day 3 - Jas Lacroix Hut - Vallonpierre Lake
Day 4 - Lac du Vallonpierre - La Chapelle en Valgaudemar
Day 5 - La Chapelle en Valgaudemar - Refuge Souffles - Désert en Valjouffrey
Day 6 - Désert en Valjouffrey - Valsenestre
Day 7 - Valsenestre - Col de la Muzelle - Venosc
Day 8 - Venosc - le Deux Alpes (variant C)
Day 9 - the Deux Alpes - Col du Souchet (variant C)
Day 10 - Col du Souchet - Col d'Arsine
Day 11 - Col d'Arsine - Monêtier-les-Bains